Italian prosecutors seek supervision for Tod’s over labour exploitation allegations

It is the sixth such case in Italy since the start of last year, involving some of the best-known names in the fashion industry

Italian prosecutors are seeking to place shoemaker Tod's under judicial administration over alleged worker abuses in its supply chain, in the latest in a string of cases that have tainted the image of some of the biggest names in fashion.

The investigation, which had not been previously disclosed, came to light in a Supreme Court ruling that scheduled a hearing to resolve a dispute between Milan prosecutors and a local appeals court over jurisdiction.

Prosecutors allege that Tod’s “culpably failed” to adequately monitor its suppliers in pursuit of higher profits. The company itself is not under criminal investigation, with prosecutors focusing instead on cleaning up the supply chain.

A Milan court had earlier found the prosecutors’ request for judicial supervision well founded but ruled that jurisdiction lay with the Marche region, where Tod’s is headquartered. The Supreme Court has now set a hearing for November 19 to determine which court will handle the case.

Tod’s responded to the allegations, saying it had been informed of the hearing but had no further details. “We can only reiterate that Tod’s complies with current legislation, including labour law, and that constant checks are carried out on the workshops we select and use,” the company said. Tod’s added that workshops are required to sign agreements guaranteeing compliance with labour contracts and proper working conditions before beginning any work for the brand.

This marks the sixth instance of judicial supervision imposed on luxury companies in Italy since early 2024. Previous cases have involved Loro Piana, as well as divisions of Valentino, Dior (owned by LVMH), Armani, and Alviero Martini. In several of those cases, the measures were lifted once the companies brought their practices into compliance with legal standards.